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Guide

Which Steam Vent Do I Need

One pipe steam, plain English, in about four minutes.

4 min read · First Ave Supply, 1587 First Avenue

Most prewar buildings on the East Side run one pipe steam. One pipe in, no pipe out, and the air has to get out of the radiator before the steam can get in. That is the vent's whole job.

If a radiator is cold, or hot at the wrong time, or hissing and spitting, the vent is usually the reason.

Two questions decide everything

Where does it screw in? Into the side of the radiator near the top, or into the top of the steam main down in the basement. Those are two different parts. Radiator vents are small. Main vents are big.

How fast should the air come out? This is the part almost nobody gets told. The radiator closest to the boiler fills first and the one at the end of the line fills last, which is why the apartment at the end is always cold. You fix that by slowing the near ones down and speeding the far ones up. That is called balancing, and it is done with vents, not with the valve.

Radiator vents

These screw into the side of the radiator. Bring the old one and we match the thread.

ModelThreadAdjustable
Hoffman 401/8 angleNo, one fixed rate
Hoffman 411/8 straightNo
Hoffman 431/4 straightNo
Hoffman 508Convector, moisture typeNo
Gorton 4, 5, 6, C, D1/8 and 1/4, angle and straightRate is chosen by model

The Hoffmans are one speed. Good, simple, right for a radiator that already works. Swap it and move on.

The Gorton number is the speed. This is the one thing worth remembering.

#4      #5      #6      C      D
slower  ──────────────────►  faster

Radiators near the boiler take a slower vent. The ones farthest away take a faster one, so the whole line fills at about the same time. A building with a permanently cold end apartment is usually a building where every radiator has the same vent.

Main line vents

These go on the steam main in the basement, not on a radiator. They are much bigger and they do much more work. Venting the main properly is the single biggest improvement most buildings can make, and it is the step most often skipped.

ModelFor
Hoffman 451/2 female by 3/4 male, convector and main
Hoffman 75Low pressure main
Hoffman 76Vacuum systems, medium and large mains
Gorton 1Main vent
Gorton 2Large capacity main, long runs

Install a main vent 6 to 10 inches above the horizontal return and at least 18 inches above the boiler water line. Lower than that and it sputters water or gets hammered.

The three problems and what to do

One radiator never gets hot and it is far from the boiler. Faster vent on that radiator. Gorton D or C. Then check whether the main is vented at all.

One radiator gets too hot, too fast, and it is near the boiler. Slower vent. Gorton 4 or 5.

It hisses, spits or leaves water on the floor. The vent is stuck open or the radiator is pitched wrong. Replace the vent first, it is the cheap answer. If it comes back, the radiator needs to pitch back toward the valve.

What not to do

Do not close the supply valve halfway to slow a radiator down. On one pipe steam the valve is open or closed, nothing in between. Half open traps condensate and that is where the banging comes from.

Do not put a 1/4 vent in a 1/8 tapping with a bushing and call it done. It will work, but you have changed the venting rate without meaning to, and you will chase that radiator all winter.

Bring the old one

Thread size is easy to get wrong from memory and impossible to get wrong in person. Pull the old vent, put it in your pocket, bring it to 1587 First Avenue. We match it at the counter and you leave with the right one.

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